Norway Trip 2015 no. 2

 

Evening Folks,

  Here's the second installment of photos from our trip to Norway.  I hope you enjoy and I'd love to hear your thoughts!

  -Nick

We stopped at a lovely cafe on one of the piers for a cup of coffee.  Norwegians know what they're doing when it comes to coffee, it was all fantastic!  And, I had to show my Smith Optics Serpico shades.  We didn't get a whole lot of sunlight in Scandinavia, but when we did I was sure glad I had these!

The inside of the Bergen train station.  I loved the steel and glass architecture.

Peace!

How's that for a backyard?

Cruising on the Nærøyfjord from Gudvangen to Flåm. This is the village of Bucha, the mountain in the background is called Buchanosa. The mountain is 1200m high and the fjord here is only 12m deep.  The church was built in 1859 and, if memory serves, there are no roads in or out of Bucha!

The village of Flåm coming in to view.  We were afraid we got a crappy seat because it was the last left and the stern was up when we boarded.  Turns out the boat was docked bow first and they lowered it when we left!  We got the best seats in the house! 

Ægir BryggeriPub in Flåm.  This was the coolest place to sit and enjoy one of their house brewed beers!  Unfortunately we were too early for dinner, but the ambiance was awesome!

The wood burning in the fireplace had such a sweet aroma to it, I was disappointed when we had to leave to catch our train!

The restaurant was full of carvings of vikings, trolls, and gnomes, but this goat on the bar was by far my favorite!

Amazing scenery on the Flåmsbana on our way up to the Myrdal Mountain Station.

Flåmsbana is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and considered one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world!

At a 5.5% gradient for more than 80% of the trip, Flåmsbana is considered one of the steepest trainlines to run on standard rails!  See the next picture for information on the stunning waterfall.

Tell me that's not impressive!  Plus, we're close to 800m above sea level at this point!

The tunnel we just came through.  They stop the train on this platform to allow photos of the waterfall.  There are 20 tunnels along this route running through the solid rock of the majestic mountains!

Now we're really getting into some snow! Think there's any trout in there?

Taken from the train platform at Myrdal.  There was about 3-4 feet of snow on the ground, but those drifts are easily covering the first story of those houses!

Simply gorgeous! 

Our dinner in Geilo was at Sofia's Cafe & Bar in our hotel The Bardøla.  I got a hamburger thinking it would be small and simple after a full day of traveling.  Boy was I wrong!  This was worlds away from small and simple!  Hands down, this was one of the best hamburgers I have ever had, anywhere! 

Norway Trip 2015 no. 1

Afternoon Folks,

Orvis 9'-6" Frequent Flyer Rod.

  As I write this post we are on an electric train heading south from Bergen to Oslo on our Great Norwegian Adventure.  Leaving from Atlanta on Friday morning we've endured about 30 hours of travel time, between flights and layovers.  We spent two nights in a beautiful, historic hotel in Bergen that, when built in 1928, was the most luxurious hotel in the city.  From Bergen we took a ferry through the fjords to Flåm where we hopped a train to start heading toward Oslo.  If you follow The Suburban Angler on any of the social media outlets then you've heard me say this before, the scenery here beyond every turn is absolutely stunning!  Even riding on a commuter type train, the time seems to pass quickly because you’re constantly looking out the windows and taking pictures.  We spent last night in the ski town of Geilo.  It is amazing to think that back home in mid-May the temperatures are in the upper 80s and creeping close to 90, but in Geilo there is still 3 feet of snow on the ground!  We’re going to be in Oslo now for about a day and a half before we head on to Stockholm, Sweden.  There is a park in the city, almost a wildlife preserve, that is set aside for all sorts of outdoor activities called Oslomarka.  I've got my Orvis Frequent Flyer rod and a box full of flies in my suitcase, so I’m really hoping to get out and do some fishing while we’re here.  If there’s any luck I’ll have some fish pictures in an upcoming update!  I’m going to keep this post short and just share a bunch of photos.  I hope you enjoy and let me know what you think.

  I hope you’re all doing well,

    Stramme Linjer (Tight Lines),

         Nick

After our layover in Oslo and heading to Bergen.

Funny bathroom doors in the Bergen airport. No question where these doors lead, is there?

Norway has more than 50,000 islands and over 83,000 km of coastline!

The lobby of the beautiful and historic Terminus Hotel in Bergen.

On Saturday night many Norwegians eat pizza or tacos for dinner.  We opted for pizza from Dolly Dimple's and it was really good!

The view across the wharf to the Hanseatic buildings of Bryggen, established in 1360.

Aboard the Fløibanen, the funicular railroad, above Bergen.

The Rhododendron are in full bloom!!

Imagine living here, overlooking the city?

This would be your view! Bergen is the second largest city in Norway and, of course, surrounds the end of a fjord.

The Troll is a mythical Norse creature deeply rooted in Scandinavian folklore going back to the 9th century.

A cherry tree in front of the fountain in Lille Lungegårdsvann just before a rain shower.

Dinner at Pingvinen (Penguin).  House made lamb sausages with foraged wild garlic, pureed celeriac, pickled red onions, broccoli and cauliflower.  Traditional Norwegian cooking!

 

The local suds!

Artwork by Karen Bit Vejle at the Bryggens Museum.  This is hand-cut with scissors from one sheet of paper!

A reconstructed section of the Bryggen Ship, including original pieces found during excavations of Bryggen after a fire in the 1950s.  The ship was presumed dismantled and the wood used to build foundations to reconstruct the town after a fire in 1248 (!!!).

Another shot of the Hanseatic shops.  Its hard to see in the picture, but the door and window frames on the ground floor are all about 15 degrees out of plumb!  You would be too, if you stood in the same spot for 300 years!!!

Taken outside our hotel in Bergen to show how light the sky was on a rainy evening.  The photo was taken around 10pm!  We are too early in the year for the midnight sun, but the nights are definitely shorter around here!

The front of our hotel, the Grand Terminus Bergen, built in 1928.

Reading Room: Bluelining 101 by Steve Hudson

Evenin’ Folks,

The hike in.

  One of the best things I've learned about fly fishing over these past few years is that it is a hobby that can be tailored specifically to you, and there is a world of information out there no matter which direction the fly takes you.  Whether you’re into freshwater or saltwater, classic bamboo rods or ultra-modern carbon fiber, fishing from the bank of a small pond or from the bow of a flats boat on a rushing river, there is something in fly fishing for everyone.  For me, the big draw to fly fishing was being able to combine my love of fishing with my love of hiking.  I spent a lot of time thinking about being able to hike through the woods for a few hours to find a small stream full of native trout that aren't so heavily pressured that everything has to be perfect to hook them.  I've decided that 2015 is going to be my “Year of the Bluelines”.  This is the year that I wear out a new pair of hiking boots trekking through the national forest in search of the streams that only show up on a topo map as a blue line. 

There isn't much better on a rainy night than a good whiskey,
a good pipe and a good book.

  Now, I've always been the type of guy that has to exhaustively research an endeavor before I let myself embark on it.  Lucky for me, I've befriended the guy who wrote the book on bluelining in North Georgia, literally!!!  At first glance this looks more like a pamphlet than a book, but prolific outdoor writer Steve Hudson has managed to cram an extensive amount of information from his more than 40 years of experience into these 76 pages.  “Bluelining 101: How to find unspoiled wild trout fishing far from the beaten path” covers every aspect of bluelining from the definition of a blueline to reading topo maps, to what gear to take and what flies to pack.  There are even sections in the book on approaching the stream, casting in cover and reading the water. 

  After reading Steve’s book, I really feel much more prepared to tackle some blueline streams this year.  His enthusiasm for the hobby really shines in all of his writing and when you finish reading this book you’ll be ready to lace up your hiking boots, grab your ultralight fly rod and hit the woods with a topo map in hand.  You can find Bluelining 101 at most local fly shops in North Georgia, a selection of them are now listed on Amazon or you can order directly from the publisher, Chattahoochee Media Group.

  I hope you’re all doing well, I’ll see you in the woods,

   -Nick

GA DNR Press Release: Seasonal Trout Streams No Longer Seasonal

Seasonal Trout Streams No Longer Seasonal - But Now Year-Round

GAINESVILLE, Ga. (4/30/2015)

Trout season opened this past March, but unlike previous years, they will no longer have a closing date.  Beginning April 21, 2015, state trout streams will remain open year-round, according to the Georgia Department of Natural Resources’ Wildlife Resources Division. 

“The Board of Natural Resources recently approved the lifting of seasonal restrictions on approximately 1,600 miles of trout waters,” said John Biagi, Fisheries Section Chief of the Wildlife Resources Division.  “This decision, which initiated as something that anglers had been requesting for many years, comes after many months of research and analysis and extensive public outreach and we anticipate that trout anglers will eagerly welcome this additional time on the water.” 

This change in trout fishing regulations only eliminates the dates of “trout season.”  So, come this October, the season will not close as it has in past years.  

“We are grateful for all the feedback received during the public outreach process. We sought input from anglers through public meetings and surveys and worked closely with trout conservation groups to ensure that we had support of this decision,” said Biagi.  “We feel confident that this change will not negatively impact trout populations, but given the fact that our agency is charged with conserving and managing the wild trout resources of Georgia, we will continue to monitor wild trout stream populations as we have for decades and will respond accordingly to any changes.” 

The daily limit is eight trout on general regulation trout waters. Anglers are reminded to respect private property rights along streams flowing through private lands and to obtain permission before fishing on private property.  

Anglers must possess a current Georgia fishing license and a trout license to fish in designated trout waters and to fish for or possess trout.  Anglers must also possess a wildlife management area license or Georgia Outdoor Recreation Pass (GORP) in order to fish on certain WMAs.  Find a list of designated areas atwww.georgiawildlife.com/Georgia-Outdoor-Recreational-Pass .  

The Winston-Salem Fly Fishing Show 2015

Evenin' Folks,

  I know I'm about a month and a half late, but I wanted to make sure and tell you guys about my trip to The Fly Fishing Show in Winston-Salem, North Carolina.  It got off to a pretty rocky start, which, unfortunately, put a damper on the whole weekend, but I got to meet some cool people and sit in on some awesome lectures.

   In spite of some cooler temperatures being forecast, I opted to take the tent and camp at a nice little campground called Midway about 25 minutes outside of Winston-Salem.  It gave me the opportunity to put some cold weather camping techniques that I've wanted to try to the test.  A few sock-covered Nalgene bottles full of boiled water tucked into the sleeping bag a few minutes before bedtime makes a world of difference!  I stayed comfortably warm, even when waking up to 12° F and ice in my mustache!!

  The Winston-Salem show was a Friday and Saturday event.  I got up the first morning and stopped at a McDonald's on the way in to grab a hot coffee and a breakfast sandwich.  Unfortunately, I didn't get much further that morning.  As I was leaving the restaurant, a driver in the oncoming lane to my left fell asleep, drifted into my lane and took the front end off of my little Escape.  I spent the next 4 hours in the McDonald's parking lot calling insurance and car rental companies trying to get the ball rolling and trying to figure out how the hell I was going to get home!  I want to take a moment to say a huge and very well deserved THANK YOU to Mike from Mike's Wrecker Service in Mocksville.  If any of you reading this are ever in need of a tow truck in that area, give Mike a call.  He helped me out a lot, did a great job towing my car and really gave me some great advice on the whole process.  

It was a good little car.

  I'm very thankful that I wasn't injured at all in the wreck, but it certainly made me think hard about attending the second day of the show or just driving home.  Well, I guess I'm a glutton for punishment, because I stayed two more sub-freezing nights in the tent so I could get my fly fishing gear fix.  To say that I wasn't in the best frame of mind for attending a show is a bit of an understatement.  As a result, I'm afraid I didn't take as many photos as I wish I had.  

   The thing I enjoyed most about the Winston-Salem Fly Fishing Show was the number and variety of presentations and lectures offered.  From fly fishing in Great Smoky Mountains National Park to the Bahamas to Alaska, and those are just a few of the presentations I attended.

 One of the most fascinating was a presentation from a gentleman named Ozzie Ozefovich on The Underwater World of Trout.  Ozzie has combined his lifelong love of trout with his lifelong love of the video camera and through his camera's lens he sheds light on the secret world of his favorite fish.  Not only does he study and explain the habits of the fish themselves, but Ozzie also runs tests to determine how the water currents change through the water column and how different structures affect the stream flow.  Ozzie had compiled his research and footage onto 4 dvds that are available for purchase through his website.  I plan to order them, so look for a review here later in the year!

Cecilia "Pudge" Kleinkauf

  A highlight of the show for me was meeting and speaking with Cecilia "Pudge" Kleinkauf, the director and guide of Women's Flyfishing Alaska.  She's such a wealth of information and experience and her passion for the sport is contagious.  Pudge has authored several books and many articles on flyfishing in Alaska, she has hosted a podcast and been interviewed by the Ask About Flyfishing podcast.  I got to speak with Pudge while she was working her table on Tier's Row, she told me she's a regular at The Fly Fishing Shows.  I feel very fortunate that I got to meet and speak with her and I hope I get the opportunity again some day.
  Even though things got off to a rough start for me with this trip, I thoroughly enjoyed attending The Winston-Salem Fly Fishing Show.  If there's a show in your neck of the woods you really ought to check it out.  The lectures, the exhibitors, and the fly shops that are represented really make for a great show.  I'm going to try to attend again next year, but I might have to get a hotel and I won't be going to McDonald's for coffee!!!
  I hope you're all doing well,
     Tight Lines,
          -Nick
  

Fly Fishing Film Tour Atlanta 2015

Evenin' Folks,

  First off, I'd like to apologize for the unplanned hiatus.  I've had a helluva couple months here lately,  after my trip to North Carolina, but I'm back now and I've got lots of posts in the works!                                                                     The guys at F3T sent me a media pack and tickets to attend their film showing down at the Buckhead Theatre.  After watching the preview DVD (and enjoying all the beer they sent!) I was really excited to attend the show.  The show has a long list of sponsors and the presenters do some pretty awesome giveaways during the intermission.  They even truck in beer from Oskar Blues Brewery, so, naturally, I got myself a Dale's Pale Ale to enjoy during the show.

  I've got to say, I was really quite shocked to be one of the first people in attendance.  I like to get to shows like this early, to ensure I get a good seat, but it seemed like the theater didn't really fill up until after the show started.  There were several empty seats around me until well after the films started.  Perhaps because it was a Wednesday night in Buckhead and the after work traffic was awful as usual.  The other thing that surprised me was the lack of energy in the audience.  I mean, come on Atlanta, we can do better!  The response from the audience just seemed lackluster at best and I felt that the F3T guys deserved better than that.  I hope the Cartersville audience in April is a lot more lively!!!

  Now, as for the films, they were really amazing!  Each film gave a look into some facet of fly fishing around the world.  All of the short films shown this year were exciting or thought provoking to watch and absolutely worth checking out.  The three that I seemed to enjoy the most were 90 Miles, a film that discussed the relationship between the US and Cuba and moving forward in cooperation for fishing and conservation; Yow: Icelandic for Yes, was a stunning film that introduces a pioneer of surfing in Iceland spending time both surfing and fly fishing in some incredibly scenic places.  Iceland was on my travel wish list before, but I think it moved up a couple notches after seeing the film!  And Mongolia, this film was an introduction for me for fly fishing in Mongolia for the world's largest trout species, the Taiman, and the innovators and guides who are trying to save the Taiman by attracting fishing tourism dollars to their corner of the world.  

  If you've got a Fly Fishing Film Tour coming to your neck of the woods, I definitely recommend you check it out.  It makes for a great evening out with awesome giveaways and good beer!  If you can't make it to one of the shows, check out the F3T website.  They've got trailers for all of the year's films on the site.

  I hope you're all doing well, and now that winter is over in most of the country, you're getting out and catching some fish.

   Tight lines!

        -Nick